18
2008
Haifa roadtrip part 3.
An article by Elahn
Comments Off Leaving the Dome behind us we continued our trip towards Haifa.
Arriving an hour later at around 11pm we found a hostel apartment run by a local who Leon once stayed at before. It was hidden at the back of a rundown block which worried me as to what was inside. Thankfully the room was decent enough, with several beds, a bathroom, tv and fridge.
Once we checked in we walked towards the German Colony and a late super and smoke of a nargilla.
The erratic drive towards Haifa.
One of the many fabulous outdoor restaurants in downtown Haifa.
I do a double take.
Haifa is the once city in Israel I’ve seen a large population of co-existing Israelis and Arabs. A lot of Arabs were out and happily mingling in cafes and restaurants, side by side with Jews very peacefully. It was great to see that if we can all learn to eat and drink in peace, then we should be able to live in peace.
Leon and I drink a Tabeh Beer. A beer made in the Palestinian West Bank. Not bad brew.
I get creative with my camera and the lights of the restaurant.
It was well after midnight and most places were open and the crowds were pumping. Finishing our super we moved on to a nearby cafe to smoke a Nargilla and chill out.
Leon makes smoke rings in the shape of deformed clouds of smoke. All look on in awe!
Miles argues back with a smoke ring of his own. Trumps Leons and closes the debate.
We call it a night and head off to bed. The following morning we rise early, go for a quick body surf near Haifa.
The beach at Haifa. See larger.
After a few hours of riding the waves we packed it up and drove further north to the town of Akko. Taken from a BBC website -
Akko is one of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world. It is first mentioned in written records in 3500BC, when it shows up in Egyptian hieroglyphs. Later on, the Kambizes used its port as their base in their campaign to conquer Egypt in 525BC, suggesting that Akko already had a sophisticated and well-developed port.
I didn’t know much about Akko at all and was amazed at this place. It is fantastic and surprising. Jews and Arabs living and working together. The market place is abuzz with activity, stores and shops with food, fish, nuts, bricabrak and much more line cobble stoned pathways, reminiscent of the old city of Jerusalem. The smells of cooking kebabs, felafel and shwarma filled my nostrils. Leon led us towards a restaurant with good hummus, zigzagging down twisting laneways being followed by large crowds of locals and tourists alike.
I follow Leon and Miles down one laneway.
I follow Leon and Miles down another laneway.
If mum ever moved here I’m sure she could get a job here. Firstly teach them how to spell.
A market in Akko. Check out scary dude in blue shirt. Is that Hannibal Lecter? Creepy.
People eat at outdoor laneway tables underneath ancient archways.
We have a late lunch of various hummus dishes, pickled vegetables, peta bread and felafel. While we eat a noisy procession comes past the restaurant complete with loud drumming, singing, clapping and a dude on a loud speaker chanting. I think it may have been an Arab wedding procession. Either that or a factory discount rug store doing some promotional spruiking.

Once the crowd moves on and we finish our lunch Leon takes us to another nearby cafe for a Nargilla and coffee. They put cardamom in black coffee here. It is a fabulous taste, much recommend trying.

The port of Akko. See larger.
It was getting late so we got back in the car and drove back to Tel Aviv, the boys dropping me home as they headed back to Rehovot. Overall a great two days away seeing more of Israel.
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